In addition to the below, for links and lists which address various types of behavioral issues see my
Links-Behavioral Issues,
Links-General Care and
Lists-General Care pages.
http://www.dearjubilee.com/index.html Joyce Miller has been a teacher,
writer and researcher for 40 years and her knowledge about dogs is
incredible! Her website is a consulting and training website dedicated to
helping dog owners train, nurture and nourish their dogs. The website
contains information about nutrition, training, finding the right trainer
and training methods for particular dogs, health and disease prevention, and
articles on a variety of dog subjects. Dear Jubilee offers the following
services: - Research on dog issues and topics and referrals to resources,
information and referrals to experts to help you find the answers to your
questions. - Informative presentations for groups, schools, retirement homes
and dog clubs. - Articles for newsletters for dog organizations. - The
Animal Connection: Workshops about the unique connection between people and
their animals.
http://www.canis.no/rugaas/questions.php Turid Rugaas is an
internationally acclaimed author and trainer. Her site has many
question-and-answer writings on it about all types of canine behavior. Very
much worth checking out!
http://www.tlck9academy.com/canine-education-links.php This canine
training school offers, besides training services, over 3900 links/articles
to peruse regarding canine behavior and training.
Canine Aggression Canine aggression can result from many things -- from being homed with
an over-domineering dog (or one that is too passive), to changes/tension in
the household (animals are extremely sensitive to our emotions and will
often pick them up and act them out when they become too much), teasing,
being crated/caged while other dogs approach, food too high in grains or
made of basically indigestible protein . . . the list is endless.
Another fact is that heartworm preventative has as one of its
side effects, aggression. According to the American Veterinary Medical
Association, 65% of adverse drug reactions and 48% of all reported deaths
resulting from drug reactions are caused by heartworm preventatives.
The potential side effects of Ivermectin (the active ingredient in Heartgard)
include liver problems, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, depression,
lethargy, skin eruptions, seizures, tremors, paralysis, autoimmune
disorders, thyroid problems, fever, weakness, dizziness, coughing, nose
bleeds, difficulty breathing, pneumonia, irritability, sudden aggressive
behavior, nerve damage, fertility problems, and sudden death. The
drug poses a particular risk to Collies and related breeds (Shelties,
Australian Shepherds, etc.). Other
chemical heartworm preventatives have many of the same side effects.
It is an accepted practice among dog owners
who practice holistic care that Interceptor and Heartgard are given every
six weeks instead of every four because they are effective for that long.
If you live in a state that does not have mosquitoes year round, it is also important to take your dog off the pills for a few
months. In order for microfilariae to develop into the infective
stage, it needs to be sufficiently warm (above 57 degrees) for a period of
time. It takes approximately 6 months for the microfilariae to mature into
adult heartworms, so stopping the drug for a few months will still allow for
kill of the various stages when started up again. In fact, ask your
vet -- if the adult heartworm load is not too heavy, it is possible to treat
the dog using the heartworm preventative rather than putting them through
the toxic treatment of arsenic to kill the worms. It is a good idea to
give Milk Thistle or an herbal liver detox formula following a dose of the
heartworm drug.
Aggression articles: see
http://www.wonderpuppy.net/canwehelp/dbaggression.htm, there are many
helpful articles and links at this site. See also
http://www.angelfire.com/biz/froghollerfilas/VaccBlanco.html.
Chatlist devoted
to dealing with aggression:
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/agbeh/
A Few Booklets to
Check Out: I'll Be Home Soon! How to Prevent and Treat Separation
Anxiety, by Patricia B. McConnell, Ph.D. This booklet explains the
difference between dogs who truly have separation anxiety and those that
merely misbehave and then describes a behavior modification program for the
prevention and treatment of both problems. A treasure chest of ideas for
keeping your dog happy in your absence, this booklet can help prevent and
treat both minor and severe behavioral problems related to dogs being "home
alone." Clear and understandable, this easy to read booklet is written for
anyone who wants to leave the house knowing that their dog is happy and
their house is safe. How to Be the Leader of the Pack and Have Your Dog
Love You For It, by Patricia B. McConnell, Ph.D. Learn how to love your
dogs without spoiling them and provide boundaries without intimidation. This
booklet clarifies how to be a benevolent leader and avoid aggression related
to fear or dominance. If you want to be a natural leader to your pack and
teach your dog that being polite is fun, this book tells you how to do it in
a peaceful, kind way. The ideas and exercises in this booklet are based on
the way dogs communicate with each other, so they are highly effective and
easy for your dog to understand. An essential part of any canine library!
You can get these from Dr. McCononell's website at
http://www.dogsbestfriendtraining.com/books-retail.php.
Training Program You
Can Do At Home, and with Team Support:
http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/. Dog
training tips to train your aggressive dogs and understand dogs Behavior
problems like dog barking , Jumping, digging, whining, biting etc and their
solution to stop dog aggression.
Diet: if feeding
kibble, feed one with non-typical grains (i.e. no wheat, corn, white rice,
psyllium husks or other fillers). Stick with grains like barley, oat, brown
rice because these don't cause spikes in insulin/blood sugar (which can
definitely affect behavior). Feed digestible sources of protein (for
instance, it should say "chicken" as the first ingredient, not "chicken
byproducts" etc.) Also no soy, dyes, eggs or chemical preservatives such as
BHA, BHT and Ethoxyquin. This also applies to your dog's treats and snacks
(definitely avoid rawhide chews). Check out my
Kibbles and Treats page for suggestions of high quality foods and
treats. My particular favorite dog and cat food is Wellness Super5 by
www.oldmotherhubbard.com. You
can visit their site to find a store location near you.
Thyroid problems
and aggression/behavior changes:
http://www.akitarescue.com/aggressi.htm;
http://www.beaconforhealth.org/Thyroid-Aggression.htm;
http://www.thyroid-info.com/articles/dog-hypo.htm;
http://www.itsfortheanimals.com/BEHAVIOR-THYROID.HTM.
According to Dr. Moira Drosdovech (www.pawsitivevet.com),
other physical problems that may result in pain and aggression include, but
are not limited to, dental disease, tumors, abdominal pain, constipation,
bladder inflammation, reproductive organ problems, encephalitis and other
neurological orders. A precipitating factor often overlooked is whether a
vaccination was administered in the previous 1-3 months before the
aggression began. Both rabies and distemper viruses have a predilection for
the brain tissue in their natural live state and their vaccines could
potentially cause mild brain inflammation in susceptible dogs, leading to
such conditions as behavior changes or seizures. A number of dogs with these
"vaccine induced" aggressions have been helped by homeopathic remedies which
work very well with a lot of behavioral problems. See
http://www.pawsitivevet.com/articles.htm#aggression (and the possibility
that vaccination has caused some or all of the aggression issue is covered
in that article as well.) If no physical
problem is found upon thorough veterinary examination, a careful
history-taking may shed light on factors that may have precipitated the
onset of aggression (such as being teased by someone, having objects thrown
at them, etc.).
Lyme Disease:
Lyme disease can cause escalating aggression. If you live in a tick prone
area, consider having your pet tested for Lyme disease. The following was
posted to a chatlist with permission to crosspost:
"We recently had a very
strange event that I think we should share around the resuce community:
Young (~2 years) male, a Lab mix, came into our [rescue] program with a
"questionable" background. He may have been aggressive toward some children,
maybe not. We kept him for a good long while --- months of fostering in our
premier foster home, with no problem -- and placed him carefully, with a
single mid-age man who absolutely adored him. We also, as we do with all our
dogs, tested him for Lyme. He had it; we treated it; case closed -- we
thought.
Everything went very well after adoption -- he was the star of his obedience
classes, a frequent alumni visitor to our cl in ics - for over a year. And
truly adored by his adopter. Then, over a year after placement, Mojo became
suddenly, erratically, and seriously aggressive: literally attacked visitors
to the home, people at the vet's waiting room, etc. Terrifying. Very sudden.
Totally inexplicable. He was returned to us with genuine heartbreak from a
very loving adopter. Mojo then went to our regular vets and was a totally
different dog: bared teeth and growling to anyone who approached his kennel,
lunging at other dogs when being walked, etc. We figured that whatever was
happening with him, he had become unplaceable and started a TDC (Tough
Decisions Committee - something we "convene" and that is open to anyone with
an interest in the
dog when we think that euthanasia might be an option).
However, someone at the vet's office said that perhaps we should test him
for Lyme. Huh???????? They had had a regular client of theirs come in
recently with similar, out of the blue aggression, and it turned out that
was the problem - puzzled them, but seemed to be the case. Okay -- hey,
we'll try anything -- so we had him tested. He was high positive! Fine, we
started treatment while we continued to figure out what to do with him via
the TDC. Almost immediately, however, once the antibiotics were begun, the
Mojo we knew came back!! He was himself again -- bouncy, happy, a bit
neurotic, but not at *all* aggressive! The staff at the vet's was amazed,
but all confirmed this change. We didn't believe it; and the veterinarians
didn't believe it .... BUT a thorough search of the internet turned up a
number of studies and anectodal observations indicating that in some dogs
(and in some humans!!) the primary symptom of their Lyme Disease can be
sudden, irrational and serious aggression. Well, we've known for a while to
check the thyroid levels of dogs that show aggression that just "doesn't
fit". Now we have added testing for Lyme as well. And we have --- results
not yet in -- another dog that we placed over a year ago who has been
returned because of out-of-the-blue aggression ... and he has also tested
high positive for Lyme! We've started treatment and will be monitoring his
response.
So --- plug this in to your protocols. It's worth checking out. I spent the
day today with Mojo ... and he truly is just the same dog we placed over a
year ago. (We've let his original adopter know -- because he vowed that it
had to be *something* causing this behavior. But he cannot take Mojo
back because his roommate, one of the people attacked, won't even consider
it. For the record, there were no skin-breaking contacts in any of these
attacks, but plenty of fear and we consider them as serious as if they were
full-fledged bites.) We actually have additional insight into this because
one of our volunteers (human) has had Lyme Disease. Took many months for her
to be diagnosed, and once she was, she learned that it's a VERY nasty bug
that really remains around permanently, waiting for a chance to "crop up"
again. When we place Mojo again (and our TDC unanimously agrees that we
should do this), we're going to explain the background, these amazing
events, and require that the adopters have him tested every six months,
whether or not he's showing symptoms. We have no idea whether that will work
or be sufficient - we're rather flying blind in this -- but it seems a
rational approach.
Feline Aggression
In the fall 2004 issue of Waggin’ Tales by the Animal Defense League here in
San Antonio, there was a writeup about petting aggression displayed by cats.
The article reads, “Petting aggression from the caregiver’s point of view is
a Jeckyl/Hyde response from the feline companion . . . unexpected, uncalled
for, and unacceptable. It is not so unusual for cats to bite while being
petted. Cats demonstrate a wide variation in how much contact and handling
they will tolerate. For some, one pet is more than enough. Others have a
high threshold and can be petted bald. Caregivers need to be aware of feline
signals that indicate the cat is reaching the amount of petting they will
tolerate: tail swishing, restlessness, ears laid back, and turning and
moving their head toward your hand. When any of these signals are observed,
stop petting and let the cat sit quietly or go on his way.
Food rewards can be used to increase the amount of time the cat will
tolerate petting. Offer the treat during petting and before any aggressive
behavior occurs. The best thing is not to exceed what the cat will tolerate.
Petting is pleasurable, and trust is built. Exceeding limits reinforces
aggressive behavior. Punishment and coercion will only make the situation
worse. Most cats do not like being petted on the abdomen or feet, so avoid
those areas.
The human/feline relationship requires communication and understanding. It
is the human’s responsibility to meet the cat’s needs and understand his
behavior. This knowledge and understanding creates an environment where a
relationship can flourish.”
One thing to keep in mind:
cats need interactive play, for mental stimulation and physical exercise.
Your cat may be aggressive due to lack of exercise or boredom. Check out
Go-Cat - this company has inexpensive and unique cat toys that allow you to
engage in play with your feline friend. Interactive play is important to
keeping our cats happy and emotionally balanced. Their most popular toy, “Da
Bird”, is a great favorite of my cat Miss Cali (she’s a “bed potato” so
getting her interested in this toy and having her play with me and it has
been wonderful!) This is a great place to shop for your cat toys, see
www.go-cat.com. They also have videos
that will keep your cat entertained for hours!
Biting See The Humane
Society of the United State's website,
http://www.hsus.org/ace/11858, for excellent information on preventing and avoiding
dog bites. You will also find information at
http://www.wonderpuppy.net/canwehelp/dbaggression.htm about biting.
Canine
Dementia/"Old Dog Syndrome"
This site has an article discussing this issue
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1551&articleid=616. One product that has been recommended for the anxiety, panting and
pacing at night that can come with old age is Tranquility Blend by Animal's Apawthecary. One online store you can order it from is Robbins Pet Care,
http://shop.robbinspetcare.com/dogs/aatranq.html. See that link for more
information.
One woman wrote that she
was recommended this product for her Beardie displaying some cognitive
disfunction and vocalization: "Cholodin made by MVP Laboratories. For his
size, it is 2 capsules daily. It has not decreased the barking, but it has
helped him to more "present" with the other dogs and with us. Cholodin
contains choline, amino acids, vitamins and minerals. I would Google it to
find suppliers, it is not expensive. I believe Omaha Vaccine carries it."
Another woman wrote: "The
Only Natural Pets website has a few good articles on health for older pets.
Here is a link to their article. They have some good formulas available for
senior animals. This article is about restlessness and cognitive decline.
http://www.onlynaturalpet.com/KnowledgeBase/knowledgebasedetail.aspx?articleid=28&Keywords=
Also, a vet recommended to me Vinpocetine for increasing circulation in the
brain and it helps with cognitive disorder. The product I received was by
Thorne Research but if you Google it you'll find it available from a few
companies. When I was reading about it from an online article, apparently in
Europe they use this for dementia more than some of the drugs."
Coprophagia (Stool
Eating) This is a problem more common than people know. A dog
came into rescue with heartworms and kennel cough and was very thin. He
recovered well, but it was later found that his kidneys were failing. Given
that supporting his immune system and kidney function was of utmost
importance, the client was even more concerned about his ongoing habit of
eating other dogs’ stools (also known as coprophagia). This is a
particularly difficult issue to resolve, as habits are hard to break, and
the reasons for coprophagia can be many, and can involve eating other
species’ stools as well. A few are nutritional deficiencies, pancreatic
insufficiency (i.e., inability to digest food properly, which can result in
the stool containing undigested or partially digested food which can provide
nutrients), and boredom/bad habit. I spoke with the dog about how important
it was to keep his body clean internally, and that he was making it more
difficult for his body to stay well. Lo and behold (believe me, I was
surprised as the client!), he immediately stopped eating stools.
It isn’t always that easy, unfortunately. Animals have free will, like we
do. And they have to want to make the change. Or they may agree to, then
promptly forget, so they need reminders (through mental images and words
from you). Rule out nutritional issues in cases like this, and be willing to
diligently address the behavioral aspect. The easiest way to handle this
situation, of course, is to pick up all droppings immediately. Support their
immune and digestive systems with a good quality digestive enzyme/probiotic (i.e. beneficial
bacteria) product. The one I recommend is Dogzymes (can be fed to other
species too) by
www.naturesfarmacy.com (get the liquid dispersible powder and mix into
wet food or sprinkle a little water on dry food and then sprinkle this on).
If you believe your animal has pancreatic insufficiency syndrome, which can
be a big reason for stool eating, then I
also recommend EnzymePro, available from
www.kvvet.com (you'll have to call them to order it, it's not on the
site). I like EnzymePro because it contains Pancreatin 6X which helps
pancreatic function. If there are two or more dogs in the family, you can also put
salt-free tomato juice or V8 juice on the dogs' food and the stool eating
should stop immediately (note that this will stop them from eating the other
dog's stools because it tastes bad to them. It won't stop them from eating
other animals' stools.)
One holistic care
consultant has found that the great majority of her stool-eating cases are
as a result of the dog lacking B vitamins, and especially biotin. You might
look for a good B-spectrum supplement (human grade, or something
specifically formulated for dogs) or a well-rounded vitamin/mineral
supplement which a good list of B vitamins and biotin in it. If using a
human-grade product, the standard adult dose is based on a 150-lb human, so
adjust the dosage accordingly for the weight of your dog. (ex: a 50 lb dog
would get 1/3 the human adult dose per day.) Give enough until you see
improvement and then resolution (be patient, it may take time, and tinkering
with the dose). Because B vitamins are water soluble, giving extra is okay
because what is not used is excreted in the urine.
For additional information and suggestions, a few
sites to check out are:
http://home.gci.net/~divs/behavior/coprophagia.html
http://www.thevet.com/vetbhv22.htm
http://canines.com/library/solutions/coprophagia.shtml
The Use of
Electronic Collars Until I attended a training seminar by Fred
Hassen (www.sitmeanssit.com), I
thought that electronic collars were a cruel concept, and worried about
whether they would break the dog's spirit, turn him into a wimp, cause him
to be shy or nervous around me, etc. I am very relieved to say that the
collar is not a cruel training device, and if you receive proper instruction
in its use (i.e., from a reputable e-collar trainer, not from a manual), you
will be astounded at how well your dog learns to respond appropriately to
commands. I started Barney on an e-collar during Fred's seminar and was
elated to see this formerly flighty, easily distracted dog learn to focus on
me. He did not end up being clingy, wimpy, shy, or nervous, and it did not
break his spirit. He did experience some anxiety while learning the
connection between collar and command, but that's normal and he quickly
worked through that. I now feel confident that I can take Barney into any
situation, including around other dogs that he previously would have shown
aggression toward, and retain his focus and response to my command of "Leave
It" or "Come". This is an essential tool if standard obedience (manners)
training is not working for you and your dog. Some dogs (they ARE dogs,
after all, and have canine appropriate behavior that we must learn to work
with) are hard headed, or too easily distracted by whatever, to focus
properly and be consistent in their responses to obedience commands. Talking
with Barney about appropriate behavior didn't help -- he was too "other
oriented" -- i.e., anything distracted him. So the collar has become an
invaluable tool for us. It has made him a more confident, focused, reliable
companion, and it has also helped him learn to focus better in his SAR work.
Fred has great information on his website about e-collar use. He offers
seminars all over the world. For more information, see his site. Lou Castle
also is an excellent e-collar trainer with many years of experience working
with SAR and public service dogs. He has great articles that spell out what
an e-collar is and is not, and how it can be beneficial for situations
including dog-to-dog aggression.
www.loucastle.com
Separation Anxiety, Fear of Storms, Etc.
Websites which talk about this problem:
http://www.michiganweimaranerrescue.com/Behave.html#six I highly
recommend reading this article - even though it talks about Weimaraners, it
is applicable to all dogs who exhibit separation anxiety.
http://www.cochranehumane.ca/html/resources/sepanx.htm
http://www.foxterrier.com/info/sepanxiety.php
http://www.greytdogs.com/problem.html
http://www.pawschicago.org/PetCare/dogs_sa.htm
http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/separtn.htm
http://www.wagntrain.com/SeparationAnx.htm
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/SeparationAnxiety.php
http://www.clickersolutions.com/articles/2002/sa.htm
The following are some of the tools which you can employ to assist your
animal in addressing and healing from anxiety, fear and terror.
-
Medical Checkup: Sometimes
there is a medical reason for fears, phobias, behavioral/personality
changes . . . such as a low thyroid, sensitivity to heartworm or flea
prevention medications, etc. Talk to your veterinarian about
medical conditions and medications which can influence behavior and personality.
-
An Animal Communication Session,
to find out the cause behind the separation anxiety (early separation from
mother, i.e., prior to 8 weeks of age, is often a cause). Communication
can also work with fear of storms or other triggering factors which
frighten your animal friend by exploring and addressing the cause, i.e.,
is it the sound, the energetic vibrations, the change in barometric
pressure), and to explain the nature of a storm or other fearful
object/sound to him/her.
-
Exercise!!!!! It
is vitally important that your dog be exercised daily - a simple walk of
15 minutes won't do it. Go for longer walks, and preferably where they can
do some running to really expend energy. "A tired dog is a good dog."
Exercise them before crating or leaving them can greatly help with their
anxiety level.
-
Raw Diet vs. Kibble:
There has been some indication that removing grains from their diet and
going to a raw diet (meat, veggies, fruits) can improve the dog's
behavior, ability to be trained, and ability to focus on your requests. It
is also healthier for your dog in the great majority of cases (unless
you're feeding a high quality premium kibble such as Old Mother Hubbard's
Wellness line, or Solid Gold's line of foods, for instance). If you must
feed grains, they should be along the lines of barley or oatmeal, not
wheat, rice, corn or soy.
-
Essential Oils See
my Essential Oils page for specific
Young Living essential oils that can help with separation anxiety, fear,
etc.
-
Bach Flower Remedies such as Dr.
Bach's Rescue Remedy (a five flower blend) can address fear, terror,
anxiety, pain and shock. There are more specific remedies which are used
to treat certain types of fears, so please contact me if you're interested
in a consultation and treatment plan. You'll find information about
Rescue Remedy on the Bach Flower Essences
page. This flower essence line can be found at most health food stores and even certain grocery
stores. A dose is 4 drops; shake or tap the bottle lightly 8 times (each
time before you give, or take for yourself, a dose) to activate the essence.
Then give/take one dose
three times, five minutes apart, and you should notice that you/the animal are relaxing and becoming centered again. Then
give/take one dose every
15-60 minutes or as needed during this time. You cannot take too much, but with
very small animals you need to be careful because the remedies are
preserved in alcohol. The alcohol can make a small cat or dog sleepy (not
to be confused with the sleepiness they may feel after their emotions calm
down). The flower essences are not drugs,
herbs or homeopathy. They are vibrational essences (energy), and work to
rebalance dis-ease in the mind, emotions and spirit. It is an important
tool to keep on hand.
It is especially useful in cases of trauma, shock, fright/terror, anxiety, pain . . .
and especially so with grief. If there are other animals in the household
and they are exhibiting signs of anxiety or other emotions as noted above, then
please give them Rescue Remedy as well. I highly recommend you take it
Rescue Remedy on the same schedule as you give it to them because we tend
to mirror emotions with our animals. Please let me know if you're
interested in a consultation and Bach remedies treatment bottle for your
animal's issues.
-
Special Music from
"The Musical Rainbow" Sharon Howarth-Russell is the composer
and creator of the Pet-Ease musical line for animals and wow, am I
impressed! Pet Ease (aka Infinite Joy) was created for the animal lover
who is looking for healthy alternatives. There are similar CDs for people
in this line. Pet Ease healing music will help calm and soothe your animal
during thunder storms; during and after an operation or sickness; with
sleeping disorders; emotional stress when settling into a new home; being
left alone; coming from an abusive home; helps ease the discomforts of old
age; quiets kennels; can help with seizures; and more.
www.themusicalrainbow.com
-
Other Music Therapy:
Check out the "Animal Healing" CD by Margrit Coates, which can be ordered
from www.amazon.com. This music is
calming to animals.
-
Anxiety Wrap, which can be found
at www.anxietywrap.com
-
Vitamin B Complex -- the B
vitamins are known as nervenes and they help calm and soothe the nervous
system.
-
Stressfree Calmplex found at
www.springtimeinc.com, or
Nutricalm through
http://www.rxvitamins.com/pets/nutricalm.asp. Both have all natural
ingredients. I can personally attest to great results from the Stressfree
Calmplex.
-
Other Herbs: Scullcap and
Valerian Root can also be helpful. For proper amount to use, please
purchase a book regarding use of herbs in animals. See Herbs for
Pets and The Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat on
the Books-Holistic Care
page.
-
Melatonin, a naturally occurring
substance in the body which can be helpful during stressful events and
situations.
http://www.melatonin.com/ (general information; not animal-specific)
and
http://www.canine-epilepsy-guardian-angels.com/melatonin.htm for
information about use in dogs. The Canine Epilepsy Resource Center has a bit of information on their site
about use of Melatonin, see
http://www.canine-epilepsy.com. The May 2000 issue (Vol. 3, No. 5) of
The Whole Dog Journal has an article about use of melatonin for
noise and thunder-phobic dogs. See
www.whole-dog-journal.com
for ordering information. Christina Chambreau, a holistic/homeopathic
veterinarian (http://www.healthyanimalsjournal.com/)
says to give 1 mg for dogs under 30 pounds, 3 mg if more than 30 pounds
and up to 6 mg for Giant breeds one hour prior to thunderstorms.
-
L-Theanine, a
naturally occurring amino acid, can be given to dogs to help calm them
without causing drowsiness or dull feelings. On
the advice of my holistic vet, one capsule (100 mg. for a dog weighing 60 pounds;
adjusting accordingly for other weights)
should do the trick; if not, another capsule can be given within 30-60
minutes. Note that you want to give this 30-60 minutes before the
triggering event, which can sometimes be hard to gauge. One source for L-Theanine complex is
http://www.painstresscenter.com/mall/LT.asp and you can read more info
about this amino acid there as well. Another product to check out is Vetri-Science
Composure Liquid which contains L-Theanine and other items which have been
shown to reduce anxiety. (Search the product name on Google to find a
supplier.)
-
Sound Desensitization (using a tape of a thunderstorm and other loud, discordant sounds). Start
it on very low volume, away from the animal (such as across the room). If
they react calmly, slowly increase volume over a period of days or weeks,
always gauging their reaction. If their anxiety increases at a certain
volume, decrease it for a few days. Play the tape as often as possible;
repetition is what helps them overcome their fear. Note that their sense
of safety while you're home during a storm may not be there during a storm
when they're alone, which would require additional work. See
http://www.ygrr.org/doginfo/behavior-phobia.html,
http://www.clickandtreat.com/webart107.htm,
http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/fear.htm and
http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=991.
-
Static Electricity: Animals are
extremely sensitive to energy. During a storm, the barometric pressure
changes; sometimes this hurts the animal's ears or their head, such as we
feel with an earache or headache. The energy cannot be changed, but the
animal may well feel better if you use a healing touch such as . . .
-
Ttouch/Calming Signals: There are
books available on these subjects which can be found on my
Books-Behavior page.
Two I recommend are On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals
and
The
Tellington TTouch: A Revolutionary Natural Method to Train and Care for
Your Favorite Animal. The Ttouch technique can be used on any
species of animal. This hands-on bodywork is gentle, non-invasive
movements of the skin and body of the animal.
-
Crates are wonderful tools, but
not for all dogs. Some do well in a Vari-kennel (plastic with air vents,
feels like a cave), some in a wire crate because they can see all around
them. If you have a crate, and can crate during a storm -- while you're
home! --, try putting a sheet or blanket over the crate to create a dark
cave, leave just a little gap at the bottom of the door area for air
circulation. (You can achieve the same thing by putting their bed in a
corner of a darkened closet.) Gauge their reaction for the first few
minutes -- if their anxiety escalates, sit with them and talk soothingly,
see if that helps. If that is helpful, then you can increase the time the
crate is covered to a period long enough to keep him/her calm and feeling
safe throughout the storm. My Weim, Barney, hates being crated (which is
only done when I'm leaving because he gets into trouble otherwise!). But
he is okay once I leave. The biggest thing to remember when crate training
is to not make a big fuss about leaving. You crate them, pick up your
purse and keys and go. No dawdling, making sweet talk, etc. A short,
sweet, "goodbye, be a good boy/girl, I'll see you later" and out the door
you go. Dawdling increases their anxiety. You need to feel confident and
centered when you send that message and when you go out the door, get in
the car and drive away. They are VERY sensitive to our emotions, so make
sure you are staying calm when he's wigging out. Feel free to tell them
that you're going to X, and you'll be back at Y, and picture those two
things in your head when you say it.
-
Homeopathy, which can also
address fears and generalized anxiety. Homeopathy addresses the whole
animal (body, mind and spirit) by supporting the body's natural vital
force and helping it to "step up" to a higher level of health and immune
system function. This includes mental health as well.
-
Search the Internet for
"anxiety in [species]" and see what you come up with as far as desensitization
techniques or other options (always use only positive reinforcement when
training).
-
Look at the Food You're Feeding
Processed foods, especially those which contain chemical preservatives (BHA,
BHT, Ethoxyquin, and forms of glycol) can cause hyperactivity (i.e.,
destructive behavior, barking for no reason, separation anxiety, etc.).
Be sure you are feeding only treats and kibbles that are naturally
preserved with vitamins and/or mixed tocopherols (vitamin derivatives).
Avoid rawhide chews, which are loaded with chemicals and preservatives.
-
Kongs: Give your dog a Kong that has been
stuffed, frozen and partially thawed (can be microwaved for 30-60 seconds to
slightly thaw). See www.kongcompany.com for information and recipes. You
can stuff them with anything you can think of (exceptions: no onions or
grapes). Dinner leftovers, boiled hamburger and cream cheese with garlic
powder and baby carrots, yogurt with peanut butter and banana, etc. If
crated, give that to him/her as soon as s/he goes in the crate, and then you must immediately leave.
S/he may bark for a few minutes but after s/he senses
you're gone, s/he should quiet down and focus on the Kong. If s/he hasn't had
one before, you should start out with an unthawed (or freshly
stuffed) Kong so they don't have to work as hard at emptying them. Then work up
to frozen over time as s/he masters cleaning them out. Make sure you get a
size-appropriate Kong (the Large size is good for dogs 40-90 lbs or so).
-
Dog Appeasing Pheromones (DAP)
and Feline Appeasing Pheromones (Feliway) come in a vaporizor form
that plugs into an outlet, like an air freshener, and has been found to be
helpful for stressed dogs and cats. An overview of DAP can be found
at
http://westwoodanimalhospital.com/ProductsToys/PheroInfo/Pherom-manage_stress_and_fear_related_s.htm,
and for Feliway see
http://westwoodanimalhospital.com/ProductsToys/PheroInfo/feliway_information.htm.
See also
http://animal.discovery.com/fansites/radio/more/calmscent.html. These
products can be purchased at most pet stores. For optimal results, be sure
to read the product insert regarding when and how to use.
-
Build
Confidence: Sometimes fears and anxieties can be reduced, maybe
even resolved, through helping the animal develop confidence in itself to
handle a situation calmly. For instance, during a storm, take the dog (for
example) through a series of obedience exercises to distract them from
what they fear. Play games with them that require them to focus on
you, not the storm. Doing this can teach the dog that loud noises
don't hurt them. Talk softly to them, ask for commands in a gentle
but firm voice, use treat rewards or whatever the dog responds well to. Do
this for 15-20 minutes at a time, have them follow you through the house,
do the exercises in various rooms. This is not an instant fix, but
if done through several storms (or whatever is causing the anxiety), you
should notice an improvement in their behavior.
-
Clicker Training: Clicker
training can be used for just about any animal and any situation.
This is especially useful for rescue animals that may have a history of
abuse. For enlightening stories and testimonials about dogs, cats and
horses who were clicker trained, please see the Gem Posts and
Gem Posts II at Karen Pryor's website,
www.clickertraining.com. Ms.
Pryor is the author of Click to Win, Don't Shoot the Dog, Lads
Before the Wind; she also offers several videos about clicker training
of various species through her website, and clicker training tools
(including a great starter kit!). For an excerpt from Click to Win:
Clicker Training for the Show Ring, see
http://nipissingkennelclub.com/showtrain1.htm. Another trainer/writer
is Melissa Alexander, author of Click for Joy. She trained under
and works in conjunction with Ms. Pryor. Ms. Alexander's website is
www.clickersolutions.com,
which also has a Yahoogroups list you can join.
-
Basic Manners Class: Along
the lines of building confidence, take your dog through a basic manners
(a/k/a obedience) class. It strengthens your bond with them, and builds
their confidence as they learn new behaviors.
-
Dogs: check out the following site
for numerous articles and links dealing with fear, anxiety,
shyness/timidity, etc.:
http://www.wonderpuppy.net/canwehelp/dbfear.htm
-
Cats: check out the following site
for numerous articles and links dealing with behavior problems in cats:
http://www.wonderpuppy.net/canwehelp/behaveC.htm
Here are other tips from
people who have had success with various methods or protocols:
A. "I can tell you what helped for my golden.
If thunderstorms were predicted I would put Five Flower Formula flower
essence (by FES) in the water in the morning. When the storm was evident I
would giver her Five Flower Formula directly into her mouth, massage a few
drops of lavender essential oil into her coat [note: I recommend Young
Living brand, not anything else - see
Essential Oils page), put her in a crate in my bedroom, cover 3 sides of
the crate with a bed sheet, close the window shades, and put on a classical
music CD. If I stayed in the room she would continue to be upset. But if I
left the room she would calm down and relax in the crate. I left the bedroom
door open a little so I could check on her without her knowing it."
B. "What seems to help the most is l-theanine,
a supplement you can find at health food stores. I give a capsule or two
(large dog) when I think a storm may be approaching. If I'm unaware and give
it as a storm starts, it's too late. There is a body wrap called Anxiety
Wrap (see above). What I've done is put a small t-shirt on my dog and pull
up the excess on her back with a rubber band. You want the shirt to fit
tightly. There also are instructions out there for doing this with Ace
bandages. I find that acting calm and matter-of-fact helps a bit so this
doesn't get so overblown. If I act like something's wrong or comfort my dog
too much, then they are even more fearful."
C. "They can't use a crate to keep him safe
during storms because that causes him severe anxiety in the first place and
he destroys the crate. They just purchased him an Anxiety Wrap and put it on
him and he was able to relax, lie down, even look out the window. Previous
to the Anxiety Wrap he paced, whined, circled, peed in the house, I won't
even mention the things he's destroyed. So far he's gone through the severe
storms in PA that caused all the flooding and the 4th of July
fireworks....calm and relaxed! They had tried snug tshirts and wrapping as
shown on the T-Touch site with no change at all."
D. "The link below below is a pretty thorough discussion of several
different things which can be used or done to help your dog. In the past, I
have used melatonin 3mg for my 12 year old Airedale, Quincey with pretty
good results. Melatonin is not a drug per se in that it requires a
prescription, rather it's actually a natural hormone which one can buy
over-the-counter in most health food stores, alternative health pharmacies,
big box grocery stores and the like. "An article in The Whole Dog Journal
reports that one of the most effective treatments for thunderstorm phobia is
melatonin, an over-the-counter hormone used by humans to treat insomnia. Dr.
Nicholas Dodman and his colleague Dr. Linda Aronson of the behavioral
section at Tufts New England Veterinary Medical Center had been looking for
something that would help reduce canine thunderstorm phobias when they
discovered research papers on the effect of melatonin. Research indicated a
positive effect of melatonin on dogs that continually lick their flanks as
well as a calming effect on chickens in overcrowded conditions. Drs. Dodman
and Aronson wondered whether melatonin might work on noise phobic dogs. The
first dog to try it was Dr. Aronson's own Bearded Collie who had severe
thunder phobia after lightening struck very near her house. The effect of
the melatonin was dramatic. The dog simply stopped being afraid instead of
tearing around the house and digging at the carpets. The melatonin did not
put her to sleep, she stayed awake and alert -- just not bothered by the
thunder.' See
www.ygrr.org/doginfo/behavior-phobia.html for more information."
E. "Cesar Milan recommends distracting the dog
by doing some kind of enjoyable activity that will give the dog focus away
from the storm. All the experts agree that you shouldn't coddle or
sympathize with the dog because that, like praise, reinforces the behavior.
I personally still go with changing the attitude, thinking and emotions of
the owner: if a thunder storm is approaching and you start thinking about
you dog's fear, talking about it, etc, the dog can get the picture that he
is supposed to do his fear thing. I have seen several cases among my
students where this behavior, even if it were of long duration, was stopped
when the owners changed their mental and emotional focus."
F. "Women of my age (60ish) may remember that
we used to be advised to put an old silk scarf over our hairbrushes to
remove static from our hair, though this was before the age of commercial
conditioners. All I can say is, it worked. Perhaps this would be a cheaper,
more natural, trick that could be tried, as there seem to be cheap, large,
silk scarves, made in India or thereabouts, around in the discount stores.
Charity shops might be a source, too. Perhaps a couple of the long ones
could be knotted together and used in the wrap style, although it would not
be wise to leave like this if the dog is alone."
G. "In "The Nature of Animal healing" by
Martin Goldstein, DVM, he says the falling barometric pressure of an
impending storm packs the air with positive charge. The calcium in the bone
and joints also carries a positive charge. The positives repel each other,
like two positive magnets. Changing the positive ions to negative ions
helped calm the dogs. Now I have no idea how much a negative ion generator
costs or how to get those positive ions to negative ions, but his theory is
that the pressure affects the fluids in their brains." [Note from Kat:
please research negative ion generators before you purchase one, and see if
that's really the route you want to go. And yes, the pressure does affect
their brains, as it does ours.] Here's a message why: "One comment about air
cleaners that generate ions - I found out after I bought one (for $450) that
ions (and ozone) are harmful to animals with asthma and heart disease. It's
really not good for healthy people either."
Inappropriate Elimination in Cats
See http://www.pawsitivevet.com
for an article about this subject
http://www.pawsitivevet.com/articles.htm#elimination
|
