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Always check with your vet, especially if
you suspect bloat, before feeding these items. If you suspect bloat or
any sort of blockage (versus a small object sitting in the stomach which
needs assistance in being carried through the digestive tract), rush your
animal to your veterinarian. Signs to watch for are discomfort, anxiety,
pain, pacing, licking or biting at flank/stomach area, rapid and/or shallow
breathing, pale gums, change in temperature – ask your veterinarian for
details. See the Bloat page for more details (click on "Bloat" in the
table, above).
◊ Animal CPR For
an easy to use, printable chart, see
http://members.aol.com/henryhbk/acpr.html.
◊ Canned pumpkin
(not pumpkin pie filling) will reduce or stop diarrhea. For a small dog, 1-3
teaspoons, and for a large dog 1-3 tablespoons, per day. In larger amounts
it can help with constipation. A small amount of banana or apple, or
applesauce, may help with diarrhea or constipation. Experiment with the
amount to see what works for your dog in those situations. Note that
diarrhea is the body's natural way of purging something foreign or toxic, so
it is sometimes better to let diarrhea run its course. The animal may be
purging a parasite, a virus, it may be as a result of stress, a new food,
etc. If it is copious and/or continues for more than two days, be sure
the animal is not becoming dehydrated. Use a bit of pumpkin to give the
stool some bulk but if at all possible, avoid giving a drug to stop the
diarrhea unless the situation is severe, such as with Parvo.
Diarrhea See this
short writeup about a product that could be helpful
http://www.holisticpetinfo.com/Conditions/digestive_diarrhea.htm.
◊ Slippery Elm
capsules (an herb; use the human dose for a 70+ lb. dog) 2-3 times a day
will help soothe an irritated stomach and intestinal tract. This should not
be used as a long term solution, but several days to two weeks is usually
fine. It is not unusual to see mucus on the stool while using this product,
indicating that the system is cleansing and protecting its delicate lining.
◊ Charcoal tablets
(human grade, found at drugstores, not the stuff used in gardens or
potted plants), 3% hydrogen peroxide, and several sizes of plastic
syringes should be kept on hand in the event your animal ingests
something toxic. Ask your vet or the National Animal Poison Control Center (NAPCC)
for dose and administration instructions. NAPCC’s number is 1-888-4ANI-HELP
(888-426-4435). They provide 24-hour emergency veterinary assistance. If the
manufacturer of the drug/product/chemical your animal has ingested/come in
contact with does not support the NAPCC, the current fee for the call is
$45. Note that not all ingested substances should be purged with peroxide;
in that case, crushed charcoal tablets are best.
◊ Raw,
Unprocessed Honey contains several important minerals and
has the ability to kill bacteria. It can be used for dressing wounds and
burns to keep them sterile and promote healing. Dark honey is more effective than the
light version. According to Volhard and Brown, “Can be used externally for
treatment of skin disorders, especially effective with burns. Internally,
for sinus problems, coughing, sore throats, digestive upsets, and most
importantly, bringing a dog in shock around.” (As such, it can be
helpful to the hypoglycemic dog or cat.) Use ¼ tsp. (small dog) to 1 T. daily (80
lb. dog). For shock, give 1 T. (80 lb. dog). The easiest way to do this is
to keep the honey in a squirt bottle. In addition, honey contains pollens,
which can help desensitize the animal to allergies. Be sure to purchase
dark, locally harvested honey so that it contains local pollens. It is
helpful for dogs who have digestive system problems, as it contains two
enzymes. Use honey in addition to an enzyme product for dogs or cats with
digestive issues. For the healing properties of honey, see
http://natureweb.netfirms.com.
The best honey to get is Manuka honey with an active factor of 12+. Take a
look at the products offered at
http://www.manukahoneyusa.com/BurnsWoundsUlcersSores.htm.
◊
Heat Stroke - How
to Avoid/First Aid for: See this article
http://www.webcanine.com/health.htm#heatstroke.
◊ Ice packs wrapped
once in a dry washcloth or towel, or ice cubes wrapped in a wet washcloth,
for about 10 minutes at a time to reduce swelling from insect stings and
bites; at surgical and wound locations to create a flushing action of the
blood/fluid around the wound/incision site due to cooling and warming action
(great for reducing edema and bruising); and for sprains and strains. Be
careful not to freeze the skin – remove the ice pack every few minutes to
test the skin for coldness.
◊ Homeopathy There
are a number of homeopathic remedies that can be kept on hand for first aid
use. See Homeopathic Care for Dogs and Cats: Small Doses for Small
Animals by Don Hamilton, DVM, and Homeopathic First Aid for Animals:
Tales and Techniques from a Country Practitioner by Kaetheryn Walker on
the Holistic Care book page.
◊ Calendula tincture
(diluted 10 drops in 8 to 16 ounces of filtered water) or Calendula gel,
misted or lightly dabbed on the skin. Great for wounds, skin irritations,
infections; a fantastic herbal healer available at health food stores.
◊ Tea Tree oil
(diluted 10 drops in 4 ounces of filtered water) misted or lightly dabbed
on the skin several times a day. Great for skin irritations, rashes and
infections such as staph. Do not use this oil on cats.
◊ Treating
Diarrhea in Dogs
See my Health-Miscellaneous page.
◊ Heat Exhaustion
and Heat Stroke The following was written by Shelley Shorrock of
Gramayre Weimaraners.
"In May 2001, while leaving a field from running a Novice Shooting Dog test, Shammy (Am/Can Ch. Champagne Agassiz Desnebels NRD FDJ NSD CGC) collapsed.
She was suffering heat stroke. It was not a “hot” day, only in the 70’s, but
we had traveled two days to get to the test and the weather was warmer than
at home. We lost Shammy in August 2002, due to kidney damage stemming from
this event. I am providing the following information to help others realize
the dangers of and their dogs susceptibility to heat stroke.
Heat Exhaustion versus Heat Stroke Heat exhaustion occurs when
a dog starts showing the effects of heat such as excessive panting, and the
skin on the inside of the ears become flushed and red. There body
temperature may become slightly elevated to around 103F. Normal rectal
temperature is 102F – 103F [101.5-102.5] Heat stroke occurs when the body
loses the ability to control its own temperature. The temperature will be
elevated over 104F. Signs of heat stroke include gums that are muddy pink
rather than the normal red-pink color, heart rate severely elevated, panting
furiously, walking slowly and disorientation/staggering. This will progress
rapidly to loss of consciousness. Humans sweat, Dogs pant. Dogs remove heat
from their body through the respiratory tract. They exhale the heated air
and inhale cooler air. When heat is not removed quickly enough through
respiration, the body temperature begins to increase. Once the temperature
approaches 105F, oxygen delivery to the dog's system is not able to keep up
with the rapidly elevating demand. The body loses the ability to regulate
its temperature. Cellular damage occurs around 108F, this occurs to organ
systems such as the kidneys, liver, heart, gastrointestinal tract and the
brain. The higher the temperature and the longer it is elevated, the more
severe the damage. This is immediately life-threatening. Dogs that survive
have a high probability of suffering long-term problems. Factors that
contribute to Heat Stroke are: Heat, Humidity, Muscular activity,
Acclimation, High body mass, Anxiety, Poor ventilation, Dehydration,
Obesity, Antihistamines, Phenothiazines (some medications for vomiting),
Brachycephalic breeds (short-nosed breeds), Increased age.
EMERGENCY!
Heat stroke requires veterinary assistance! However, treatment should begin
immediately prior to heading to the clinic. The dog's temperature must be
lowered by using water and air, aggressively. The dog's respiratory system
(panting) is not able to keep up with the heat, so you must provide a way to
remove heat for the dog through its skin and blood. Submersion into cool
water will help bring the temperature down quickly, you should circulate the
water to stop the warmer water from stagnating next to the body. A hose will
also work and the entire dog should be wetted. Water should be run as much
as possible in the groin area, as there are a large concentration of blood
vessels close to the surface of the skin. A good flow of air around the dog
is required. Evaporative cooling occurs when air passes over a wet surface.
A wet dog + air flow = evaporative cooling. DO NOT cover the dog with a wet
towel or confine them to an enclosed crate/area. This will restrict the air
flow and therefore the evaporation. Once cooling has begun, transport the
dog to the Veterinarian, in a vehicle with the air-conditioning running or
the windows wide open. In most cases the animal will be started on IV fluids
and organ functions will be monitored for several days. The amount of lab
work will depend on the severity and length of time the temperature was
elevated. I highly recommend lab work for even a “mild” event of heat
stroke. Knowing of any organ damage can help in prolonging your dogs life
through medication and/or dietary changes. Note: If at all possible, the
rectal temperature of the dog should be monitored closely throughout this
time. There is a danger of over-cooling the dog. Due to the loss of control
over regulating their own temperature, if cooled too much, the dogs
temperature could continue to drop and cause hypothermia.
Preventing Heat Stroke The best course of action is
prevention. We are all aware of the dangers of leaving our Gray kids in a
vehicle in the summer, but there are less obvious contributors to heat
stroke we need to be aware of as well. With no ventilation, moderate
temperatures can significantly increase your dogs risk. Up to 70 – 80% of
the energy burned to perform muscular activity is converted to heat.
Therefore, heavy activity can drive the body temperature up at an alarming
speed. Dogs should be properly cooled before, during and after all physical
exertion. This includes any way to cool the air, supplying water for
evaporation and hydration (remember, the moist air in their breath assists
in evaporative cooling) and increasing the air flow around the dog. Having
knowledge of the risk factors as well as the environmental considerations
should help all of us avoid this potentially devastating problem."
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